That is true and not true at the same time. I give rabbits NO GREENS until 4 months of age or older in order to prevent enteritis (diarhea) the #1 killer of young rabbits. You can feed them a few Cheerios or one tablespoon of uncooked, old-fashioned oatmeal as a treat. btw, the oatmeal works to firm up soft stools, too.
After 4 months you can slowly work in the greens. I feed a quality pellets based diet of pellets, hay, water, and occasional greens as treats. My rabbits stay in superb condition on this diet which is important to me because I need to keep my rabbits in top shape for competition.
Btw, we limit greens at the shelter with adult rabbits, too, because we don't know what they were being fed before they came in. We don't want to give them a bunch of greens and throw their systems off and cause them to get sick. Then they would have to go on the sick list and be put on the rescue list and be at risk for euthanisia.
Be careful with greens. Dried grasses and grains are the natural diet for rabbits with greens being available only for parts of the year. Limit sugary foods like carrots and fruit, too. In nature, rabbits would never climb a tree to retrieve and peel a banana or find a large strawberry. lol.
But we are talking domestic rabbits here, not wild ones. Pellets from a feed store (not pet store) are best, along with hay and water and occasional greens after they are over 4 months old. If you can't buy from a feed store then go ahead and but from a pet store but avoid anything that looks like it has Fruit Loops or ';candy' in it. The pellets should be green, smell sweet and be way less than 3 months old.
Hope that clears things up for you.I want to feed my rabbit the stems from my broccoli, but i heard greens are not good for rabbits?
Some one should read more books.
The following was compiled by me to give more help to new rabbit owners and I hand it out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lop rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50+ years ago, when I was a small child.
History.
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour of all rabbits.
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs and along with the following. Vegetables:
Artichoke leaves and Jerrusalem leaves, stems and tubers, Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorns and full size ones, Beetroot, Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties), Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts), Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets), Carrots (and carrot tops), Cauliflower (and the leaves), Celeriac, Celery (and its leaves), Chicory (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Courgette ( also leaves and flowers), Cucumber ( also leaves and flowers), Curly Kale (Excerlent for winter use), Fennel, Green beans (including leaves and stems), Kohl rabi, Parsnip, Peas (including the leaves and pods), Peppers (red, green and yellow), Pumpkin ( also leaves and flowers), Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine (and all other lettuce as this is a diretic), Spinach (only occasional), Spring Greens, Squash (e.g. Butternut, leaves and flowers), Swede (Excerlent for winter use), Turnip (only occasional), Watercress.
Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil, Coriander, Dill, Mint (peppermint), Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.
Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content): all types of fresh fruit including skin Apple, Apricot, Banana (high in potassium),Blackberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Blueberries,Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi Fruit, Melon, Mango, Nectarines, Orange, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Plums, Raspberries, Strawberries, Raspberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Tomatoes (not the leaves)
Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed ( in small amounts as this is a diretic), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Dandelion (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!, Lavender, Mallow, Nettle (the type with the white flowers), Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Shepherd's purse, Sow Thistle, Plantain, Yarrow.
Extra vitamins and salt licks are not required. Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their low quality food, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing. Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Rabbits living indoor will drink more water than rabbits living out of doors because of the dryer atmosphere
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you can not therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Rabbits are naturally very clean animals and will only defecate and urinate in one area.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your child's rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. I don't see altering as cruel when the kits may be dead in a year anyway; either through being ';released'; into the wild'; or being slaughtered in a shelter when the owners have got bored of them.
Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling.
Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries, nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned and they moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly.
If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Rabbit teeth, some rabbits have an over bight or an under bight which means that the teeth don't wear down properly, you have a choice here 1] Get your vet to pull the two front teeth out, 2] Get your vet to cut or file the two front teeth down, 3] You cut or file the teeth down. I prefer to do this job myself and cut the rabbits teeth, but I have never had to cut the teeth of any of the rabbits that I have bred. The name for this problem is malocclusion! Rabbits do far far better on a poor quality hay as they will chew this then excrete a pellet which they will eat so as to get more value out of the poor quality hay. This will also give them a more natural exercises to do and keep them occupied for longer. Trimming Nails Sit down and lay your rabbit on its back that way you can get to all 4 feet put your thumb on the sole of the foot with your fingers around the back of the foot and press your thumb down to show the nails take 1/3 rd of the nail off
A rabbits nose should be dry when it is in good health, if the nose is wet seek advice from your vet.
Breeding
Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects and anything that is not found in the wild population such as long fur, extra short fur, drop down ears or satin fur can be classed as a genetic defect. Long hared rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot more grooming than short hair or normal coated rabbits do
Females will come into heat when a male is around, they don't go through cycles like most other creatures although they can mate anytime in any month and produce a litter, in theory they can produce a litter every month.
Gestation 30 to 32 days, litter size 3 to 8, eyes open 10 to 12 days, weaning are 6 to 8 weeks When the litter arrives don't expect every kit in the litter to be the same size, like multiple human births each kit will be different size and weight. Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-Doe (Dam) Young rabbit- Kit (offspring)
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female pet rabbits die having their first litter.
Males can father a litter anytime from 6 months old up to 12 years old.
When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock there is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest.
After the birth she will feed her kits at dawn and dusk, to feed them she will stand over the kits and the kits will come up to feed from the doe. Does don't menstruate, they ovulate after mating, a very efficient system.
Sexing rabbits try the following sites ....
www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing. ... www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/sexing.sh鈥?... www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=18%26amp;鈥?...
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and bred exhibition rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12+ years, at the moment I have 26 rabbits.
Garden plants. There's no such thing as a rabbit-proof plant. However, there are some that usually get passed over for something more tasty. Achilles (Yarrow), Agastache (Hyssop), Aquilegia (Columbine), Astilbe, Digitalis (Foxglove), Eryngium (Sea Holly), Euphorbia (Spurge), Gaillardia (Blanket Flower), Geranium (Perennial Geraniums), Helleborus (Hellebore), Hyacinthus (Hyacinth), Iris, Kniphofia (Red-hot Poker), Lavandula (Lavender), Lupinus (Lupine), Narcissus (Daffodil), Nepeta (Cat mint), Origanum (Oregano), Papaver (Poppy), Penstemon (Beardtongue), Peony, Perovskia (Russian Sage), Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal), Salvia (Sage), Yucca. Toxic Plants found in the house around Christmas: Poinsettia, Philodendron, Diffenbachia, Taxus Bicata = Yew, Chrysanthemum
Plants found to be Poisonous to Rabbits
Aloe vera, Amaryllis, Anemone, Azalea, Buttercups, Bluebells, Bittersweet, Bryony, Caladium, Carnation, Clematis, Crown-of-Thorns, Cyclamen, Columbine, Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Deadly Nightshade, Delphinium, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, Dog Mercury, Evergreens, Fig, Figwort, Fools Parsley, Poppies, Ragwort, Hemlock, Holly, Hydrangea, Impatiens, Juniper, Kingcup, Leyland Cypress, Laburnum, Lords And Ladies, Lily of the Valley, Lobelia, Marsh Marigold, Monkshood, Meadow Saffron, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Oleander, Primrose, Privet, Schefflera, Spurges, St Johns wort, Rhododendron, Rubber Plant, Tulips, Wisteria, Woody Nightshade
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'.
Since having a brain injury I had to cut down on pets from over the 200 I owned, I have only kept a few Ferrets and European polecat hybrids, Rabbits, Dogs and a breeding pair of Rosella Parakeets.
Please do not copy without the written permission from me the author.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/intact-fer鈥?/a> http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13u鈥?/a> .
http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13u鈥?/a>
Contact me if you need any more help. I help my vet when ever I can.
The American cottontail rabbit is an inferior species of rabbit and not the same specie as the rabbits that are kept all over the world as pets, the domestic rabbits originate from SpainI want to feed my rabbit the stems from my broccoli, but i heard greens are not good for rabbits?
they are ex for rabbits! i feed mine a ton of greens everyday and they are perfectly healthy rabbits
Greens are good for rabbits, but don't overfeed them with greens, coz they might get dierreal. However some vegies are toxin for rabbits, lectuce is a no no for rabbits, pls refer to the website May gave u. I have a friend who knows that lectuce is toxin for rabbits but he still feeds them with lectuce, just because they love it, but that is so cruel.. it is bad for rabbits in the long term.
Rabbits eat a range of grasses, weeds, leaves, shoots, twigs as well as the bark of shrubs, bushes and trees.
They enjoy the hard stalks of broccoli; it gives them something to chew.
try going to www.rabbit.org. I think it has a list of things you can feed your rabbit. I feed my rabbits carrots and carrot tops, and mint and rasberry leaves
greens are great for rabbits! They love the stems from broccoli too- the tops should be given in more moderation so that they don't get diarrhea. Just don't feed them too much of something and watch to see that their poop doesn't get weird. They get can stomach issues pretty easily and end up dying- happened to me! But greens in general are great for them. They especially like the green leaves from the broccoli and cauliflower!
Greens are good for rabbits.
Rabbits can die from diarrhea in 48hrs or so. The only quick cure I know is feeding them dandelion greens. I have done it and it works.
Yes, I lost rabbits do to diarrhea when I was 10 and that is how I learned the cure.
However, store bought greens may not be a good idea as at times that are hazzardous to humans as well.
its a lie
I have never heard this. I have fed my bunny broccoli stems and all. Where did you hear this?
greens are very GOOD for rabbits, i dont know about broccolli, but green leaf lettuce, dandolion grees, brussel sprouts, and many more are verry good for them. a rabbit should never live off just pellets....those were made for meat rabbits and its okay to have them for them to eat but give them many GREENS.
They eat grass, all wild rabbits would be dead if that was true.
They live on greens feed it broccoli lettuce anything it will eat clovers grass rabbit pellets.
you can feed your rabbit greens, its alright, My old rabbit that i used to have loved lettuce only nothing eles, She would not have any problems, and lived for years,
Rabbits love greens, of any kind, the only one I would tell you not to feed them is iceburg lettuce just because it offers no nutrional value for them or us. Spinach is great to give them or any other green veggies.
My rabbits love that.
Its a lie thats greens are bad for rabbits.Your just not suppused to feed a kit or younger bunny greens.
What is badfor them is pellets that have bicutts peices in them or sweet things in them.Also dont feed a lot of carrots as they are high in sugar.
Heres a site explaining all the toxic and safe veggies for buns
http://www.petcaretips.net/safe-veggies-鈥?/a>
heres a site that'll help you with your rabbits Q's
http://www.rabbit.org/
and heres a great rabbit forum with a lot of people who can help you!
http://forums.rabbitrehome.org.uk/
Heres a few that will help you alot with rabbit qesutions
this is not true. rabbits can eat any vegetables broccoli is fine and also carrots are good for rabbits.
Rabbits love to eat carrots most of the time this is thier favorite food.
DON'T WORRY! your rabbit is fine
GOOD LUCK!!!
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